I grew up across the street from today's guest blogger. Ashley has grown into a talented and knowledgeable makeup artist. She recently launched her own brand. She knows the best products and her brides manage a perfect blend between natural and flawless. Her post breaks down something I thought beyond my ability and makes it sound manageable and fun. And for the first time ever, I understand my own face shape, something even the best beauty magazine has never been able to do.
As a makeup artist I am constantly getting questions about
how to apply different looks especially when it comes to contouring and
highlighting. Highlighting is the application of lightness/brightness to an
area to bring it forward, appear larger and draw attention to it. Contouring is
the application of darkness to an area creating shadows and sculpting. Darkness
will make areas appear smaller. It is placed on areas of the face to accentuate
the shape or correct it. Here are my 5 tips to bring out your cheekbones, slim down
your nose and sculpt your face:
1.
Determine
your face shape: This is the most
important step when mastering highlighting and contouring as this will help to
determine where on your face you should shade. Is your face oval, square,
round, long or heart? Oval faces have
a soft, rounded hairline and chin, widening at the temples. Square faces have a wider jawline and
forehead. Lines of the faces are straight/angular and the jawline will be
square. Round faces are widest at the
cheekbones and rounded along the hairline and jaw as well as a short chin and
full forehead. Long faces are narrow with
prominent cheekbones. It is similar to oval but with more length and less
width. Heart shaped faces commonly
have a widows peak but not always. The forehead is wider and cheeks tend to be
fuller.
*The
chart below demonstrates where to highlight and contour based on the shape of
your face.
2.
Choosing
the right products: Your contour color should be one shade darker than your
skin tone. You can use foundation, concealer or powder to shade and it should
always be matte. Your highlight should be 1 to 2 shades lighter and can also be
foundation, concealer or powder.
When choosing a product I base it on how subtle or severe I want the shading to
be. For a soft hint of color use powder. For a very natural look, use
foundation. And, for a more severe look use concealer. Typically, I stay away from highlighters with
obvious shimmer because just a hint
of shimmer will give you the most natural look. If your skin is oily avoid it all
together as a lot of shimmer on oily skin can enhance your shine, making your
skin look greasy.
3.
Using the
right tools: When using cream use a damp blending sponge and your fingers, as the warmth from your hands
will warm up the product allowing for seamless blending. When using powder use
a tapered brush with soft bristles.
The softer the bristles, the easier to blend and the tapered shape of the brush
will help with controlling placement. When using foundation use a flat top kabuki brush and a damp
blending sponge.
4.
Blend,
Blend, Blend: Contouring can be frustrating and difficult to master. The
key to a seamless contour is becoming a master of blending. Choose the products
and tools that make you feel the most comfortable and then practice, practice,
practice!
*TIP:
Blending will be easiest if you are consistent with the products you use. If
you choose to contour with powder then your blush and highlighter should be
powder. If you choose cream, your blush and highlighter should be cream. The
ONLY time I mix and match is if I am highlighting/contouring subtly with
foundation.
5.
Top it
off with the right blush: Blush
will pull your entire look together. Choosing the right blush is important. For
the most natural effect use soft colors. For fair skins I typically choose soft
pinks and peachy tones. For darker skin types I typically choose soft rose and
plum colors.
Ashley can be reached through her website LYBMakeupArtistry.com
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